1909 Newspaper Article
EXPLORATIONS IN GRAND
CANYON

The latest news of the progress of the explorations of what is now regarded
by scientists as not only the oldest archeological discovery in the United
States, but one of the most valuable in the world, which was mentioned some time
ago in the Gazette, was brought to the city yesterday by G.E. Kinkaid, the
explorer who found the great underground citadel of the Grand Canyon during a
trip from Green River, Wyoming, down the Colorado, in a wooden boat, to Yuma,
several months ago.
According to the story related to the Gazette by Mr. Kinkaid, the archeologists
of the Smithsonian Institute
[1], which is
financing the expeditions, have made discoveries which almost conclusively prove
that the race which inhabited this mysterious cavern, hewn in solid rock by
human hands, was of oriental origin, possibly from Egypt, tracing back to Ramses.
If their theories are borne out by the translation of the tablets engraved with
hieroglyphics, the mystery of the prehistoric peoples of North America, their
ancient arts, who they were and whence they came, will be solved. Egypt and the
Nile, and Arizona and the Colorado will be linked by a historical chain running
back to ages which staggers the wildest fancy of the fictionist.
A Thorough Examination
Under the direction of Prof. S. A. Jordan, the Smithsonian Institute is now
prosecuting the most thorough explorations, which will be continued until the
last link in the chain is forged. Nearly a mile underground, about 1480 feet
below the surface, the long main passage has been delved into, to find another
mammoth chamber from which radiates scores of passageways, like the spokes of a
wheel.
Several hundred rooms have been discovered, reached by passageways running from
the main passage, one of them having been explored for 854 feet and another 634
feet. The recent finds include articles which have never been known as native to
this country, and doubtless they had their origin in the orient. War weapons,
copper instruments, sharp-edged and hard as steel, indicate the high state of
civilization reached by these strange people. So interested have the scientists
become that preparations are being made to equip the camp for extensive studies,
and the force will be increased to thirty or forty persons.
Mr. Kinkaid's Report
Mr. Kinkaid was the first white child born in Idaho and has been an explorer and
hunter all his life, thirty years having been in the service of the Smithsonian
Institute. Even briefly recounted, his history sounds fabulous, almost
grotesque.
"First, I would impress that the cavern is nearly inaccessible. The entrance is
1,486 feet down the sheer canyon wall. It is located on government land and no
visitor will be allowed there under penalty of trespass. The scientists wish to
work unmolested, without fear of archeological discoveries being disturbed by
curio or relic hunters.
A trip there would be fruitless, and the visitor would be sent on his way. The
story of how I found the cavern has been related, but in a paragraph: I was
journeying down the Colorado river in a boat, alone, looking for mineral. Some
forty-two miles up the river from the El Tovar Crystal canyon, I saw on the east
wall, stains in the sedimentary formation about 2,000 feet above the river bed.
There was no trail to this point, but I finally reached it with great
difficulty.
Above a shelf which hid it from view from the river, was the mouth of the cave.
There are steps leading from this entrance some thirty yards to what was, at the
time the cavern was inhabited, the level of the river. When I saw the chisel
marks on the wall inside the entrance, I became interested, securing my gun and
went in. During that trip I went back several hundred feet along the main
passage till I came to the crypt in which I discovered the mummies. One of these
I stood up and photographed by flashlight. I gathered a number of relics, which
I carried down the Colorado to Yuma, from whence I shipped them to Washington
with details of the discovery. Following this, the explorations were undertaken.
The Passages
"The main passageway is about 12 feet wide, narrowing to nine feet toward the
farther end. About 57 feet from the entrance, the first side-passages branch off
to the right and left, along which, on both sides, are a number of rooms about
the size of ordinary living rooms of today, though some are 30 by 40 feet
square. These are entered by oval-shaped doors and are ventilated by round air
spaces through the walls into the passages. The walls are about three feet six
inches in thickness.
The passages are chiseled or hewn as straight as could be laid out by an
engineer. The ceilings of many of the rooms converge to a center. The
side-passages near the entrance run at a sharp angle from the main hall, but
toward the rear they gradually reach a right angle in direction.
The Shrine
"Over a hundred feet from the entrance is the cross-hall, several hundred feet
long, in which are found the idol, or image, of the people's god, sitting
cross-legged, with a lotus flower or lily in each hand. The cast of the face is
oriental, and the carving this cavern. The idol almost resembles Buddha, though
the scientists are not certain as to what religious worship it represents.
Taking into consideration everything found thus far, it is possible that this
worship most resembles the ancient people of Tibet.
Surrounding this idol are smaller images, some very beautiful in form; others
crooked-necked and distorted shapes, symbolical, probably, of good and evil.
There are two large cactus with protruding arms, one on each side of the dais on
which the god squats. All this is carved out of hard rock resembling marble. In
the opposite corner of this cross-hall were found tools of all descriptions,
made of copper. These people undoubtedly knew the lost art of hardening this
metal, which has been sought by chemicals for centuries without result. On a
bench running around the workroom was some charcoal and other material probably
used in the process. There is also slag and stuff similar to matte, showing that
these ancients smelted ores, but so far no trace of where or how this was done
has been discovered, nor the origin of the ore.
"Among the other finds are vases or urns and cups of copper and gold, made very
artistic in design. The pottery work includes enameled ware and glazed vessels.
Another passageway leads to granaries such as are found in the oriental temples.
They contain seeds of various kinds. One very large storehouse has not yet been
entered, as it is twelve feet high and can be reached only from above. Two
copper hooks extend on the edge, which indicates that some sort of ladder was
attached. These granaries are rounded, as the materials of which they are
constructed, I think, is a very hard cement. A gray metal is also found in this
cavern, which puzzles the scientists, for its identity has not been established.
It resembles platinum. Strewn promiscuously over the floor everywhere are what
people call "cats eyes', a yellow stone of no great value. Each one is engraved
with the head of the Malay type.
The Hieroglyphics
"On all the urns, or walls over doorways , and tablets of stone which were found
by the image are the mysterious hieroglyphics, the key to which the Smithsonian
Institute hopes yet to discover. The engraving on the tables probably has
something to do with the religion of the people. Similar hieroglyphics have been
found in southern Arizona. Among the pictorial writings, only two animals are
found. One is of prehistoric type.
The Crypt
"The tomb or crypt in which the mummies were found is one of the largest of the
chambers, the walls slanting back at an angle of about 35 degrees. On these are
tiers of mummies, each one occupying a separate hewn shelf. At the head of each
is a small bench, on which is found copper cups and pieces of broken swords.
Some of the mummies are covered with clay, and all are wrapped in a bark fabric.
The urns or cups on the lower tiers are crude, while as the higher shelves are
reached, the urns are finer in design, showing a later stage of civilization. It
is worthy of note that all the mummies examined so far have proved to be male,
no children or females being buried here. This leads to the belief that this
exterior section was the warriors' barracks.
"Among the discoveries no bones of animals have been found, no skins, no
clothing, no bedding. Many of the rooms are bare but for water vessels. One
room, about 40 by 700 feet, was probably the main dining hall, for cooking
utensils are found here. What these people lived on is a problem, though it is
presumed that they came south in the winter and farmed in the valleys, going
back north in the summer.
Upwards of 50,000 people could have lived in the caverns comfortably. One theory
is that the present Indian tribes found in Arizona are descendants of the serfs
or slaves of the people which inhabited the cave. Undoubtedly a good many
thousands of years before the Christian era, a people lived here which reached a
high stage of civilization. The chronology of human history is full of gaps.
Professor Jordan is much enthused over the discoveries and believes that the
find will prove of incalculable value in archeological work.
"One thing I have not spoken of, may be of interest. There is one chamber of the
passageway to which is not ventilated, and when we approached it a deadly, snaky
smell struck us. Our light would not penetrate the gloom, and until stronger
ones are available we will not know what the chamber contains. Some say snakes,
but other boo-hoo this idea and think it may contain a deadly gas or chemicals
used by the ancients. No sounds are heard, but it smells snaky just the same.
The whole underground installation gives one of shaky nerves the creeps. The
gloom is like a weight on one's shoulders, and our flashlights and candles only
make the darkness blacker. Imagination can revel in conjectures and ungodly
daydreams back through the ages that have elapsed till the mind reels dizzily in
space."
An Indian Legend
In connection with this story, it is notable that among the Hopi Indians the
tradition is told that their ancestors once lived in an underworld in the Grand
Canyon till dissension arose between the good and the bad, the people of one
heart and the people of two hearts. Machetto, who was their chief, counseled
them to leave the underworld, but there was no way out. The chief then caused a
tree to grow up and pierce the roof of the underworld, and then the people of
one heart climbed out. They tarried by Paisisvai (Red River), which is the
Colorado, and grew grain and corn.
They sent out a message to the Temple of the Sun, asking the blessing of peace,
good will and rain for people of one heart. That messenger never returned, but
today at the Hopi villages at sundown can be seen the old men of the tribe out
on the housetops gazing toward the sun, looking for the messenger. When he
returns, their lands and ancient dwelling place will be restored to them. That
is the tradition.
Among the engravings of animals in the cave is seen the image of a heart over
the spot where it is located. The legend was learned by W.E. Rollins, the
artist, during a year spent with the Hopi Indians.
There are two theories of the origin of the Egyptians. One is that they came
from Asia; another that the racial cradle was in the upper Nile region. Heeren,
an Egyptologist, believed in the Indian origin of the Egyptians. The discoveries
in the Grand Canyon may throw further light on human evolution and prehistoric
ages.